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Boat Race Through A Lens

By Jo-Anne Mason

Unlike other island carnivals limited to activities on the land, Anguilla’s events extend to the sea by way of our national sport boat race. Crowds gather on the sand for the start of the race while other spectators drive around the island in their own little race hoping for a glimpse of the sails as they dart among the waves off the coast. Looking from the shore is fine…you can see their positions and get an idea of their strategy but the only way to really see the true excitement of the race with all its danger and daring is to get on a boat and follow the racers. Even then, the sailing boats need their space to maneuver and catch the wind so getting close is dangerous and foolhardy. How then can land lubbers ever understand the grueling challenge that is boat racing?

They say a picture is worth a thousand words and it is certainly true for this sport. All it takes is a boat, a fast boat with a skillful and daring captain and a photographer so dedicated to his art that he is willing to risk limb and camera to get pictures that really give the feel of sea and sport.
The Wait
Boats linger on the quiet shore at Sandy Ground hours before the start of the race. Sailors sit in the shade of sea grape trees drinking beer and occasionally strolling down to check on some small detail pertaining to their particular chore.

A few will sit like children in the sand filling bags for ballast. And they wait. Boat race is an all day sport but a lot of it is just waiting. Finally all the boats have arrived from their homes around the island and a few hoist sails for a try-out run past the opening of Road Bay. People are starting to get restless, the sun is hot and they have been waiting a long time. Food stands line the beach but nobody is really cooking yet, the party doesn’t really start until the race is running. Spectators that arrive early wander up and down the beach looking casually for someone they know and maybe have not seen for a few months or maybe a year, it’s a small island but it’s amazing how you can lose track of someone. But all this is on land. The real action is getting ready to start and it will all take place out of sight of the beach and the people on the open sea.

The Start
From what seems like no action to full speed, all the sailors are suddenly in position and the starting gun fires. The boats, sails blazing, leave the beach as one. A space has been cleared through the mass of boats that are visiting from other islands so the sailing boats can make their way out of the harbour. It happens quickly. Boats pick up wind pulling away from shore and the group gets smaller and smaller on the thin dark line that separates sky from sea. The action has not really started yet and already the folks on shore have turned to find a bit of shade because now it’s their turn to wait.
Back on a relatively calm sea the boats are still gliding smoothly, the rough water does not start until they reach that point where the land pulls back on one side and exposes them to open water.

Photo opts are easy at this point, racers are calm, resting casually on the edge of the boat, as if sitting on a porch rail hoping to catch a small breeze. You don’t even see the guys sitting on the floor of the boat holding down their partner’s legs and keeping the boat in balance. The real race has not yet begun. All this time, tiny pleasure and local fishing boats are trailing along behind and to the side like remoras hitching a ride on a shark. They stay out of the way, these racing boats can turn on a dime and they do it without warning. It is also crucial to the sailing boats that the catch the full wind in their sails. An inconsiderate boater can lose a race simply by getting on the wrong side at the right time. But that is the job and the problem. To get close to the boat, close enough to see the whites of their eyes so to speak to get the “real” feel for what it is like out there.

Most important… get a good captain, one that knows the waters and can anticipate the movements of the racers. You want to get a good photograph, one full of action and suspense, not one of a bunch of irate guys waving you off because you are impeding their strategic move. Naturally our captain has a good boat, one that can move quickly and lay back smoothly so the camera is not jumping with the constant motion. Finally a photographer who is will to take a chance and knows when to move to get that much sought after opportunity. Good photos come by chance but the chances improve when you have someone that knows how to use a camera.

So we are now out on the open sea, open on one side, the island of Anguilla follows the boats all the way out to the south, and things are starting to heat up. The sun is in the west with lazy clouds adding to the chance of a bad photo every few minutes. The ocean is dark with swells that look like someone has been running in front of the race with a big bucket scooping out giant holes. The wind is pressing on the sails causing the sailors to lean back fighting the boats desire to upend it’s self. Men on the floor of the boat use small buckets to keep the sea at bay. But the race still has not started. It won’t start until the boats round the buoy at the end of the island. It has been placed there by the judge who leads the procession and watches to make sure there are no fouls. It is a huge jumble of boats as they reach the turning point. Pleasure boats swing wide to avoid the path of the racers and racing boats begin to use strategy to cut off the wind from a nearby competitor. Getting around that buoy and deciding on the best path back is all important in winning a race. Each boat has a captain with a different strategy to accomplish this task. It is up the crew to follow his orders quickly in this most difficult time.

The Race
Now its time to take some photos. Our captain dares to range up behind a nearby sail boat and slows suddenly to give the photographer a chance for a few shots. Sailors have stopped paying attention to us, the sea is rough and the pounding wind is forcing them to concentrate. From the land these boats now look like tiny bobbing triangles of white but up close in the belly of the boat you can see men fighting to hold back forces of nature and keep the boat on course through a stubborn sea. These are the photographs we have come to get…this is boat racing Anguilla style.
Time and time again our boat speeds towards a colorful charging steed and its fearless riders. Attentive sailors glance around, you never know when a competitor is looming up to take your precious wind. Others never see the light as they huddle down in the depths of the boat bracing their teammates and constantly baling the uninvited sea. We are not looking for winners, out here they are all just fighters, soaked to the bone and holding on with rugged determination as the sea pulls and tears with every swell. We are feeling what they feel but have rails and seats and a cover to block the sun and salty spray. The boat racers are perched on a thin edge, too thin for your seat but just a little too wide to get a good grip with your hand. They depend on their mates to keep them out of the grasp of the tireless arms of the sea.
Again and again we dart up to a boat, careful to stay behind and out of their precious wind. Often as we approach the captain of our target boat decided to tack and suddenly there is a mad rush of soaked sailors from one side to the other. Everyone knows their place and this impossible task is over in a moment. The boat immediately responds and darts in the opposite direction. On the land this looks like a giant boat ballet but up close masts loom dramatically overhead as boats sail within inches of one another in an effort to gain the advantage.
We spectators are tired now, had enough of boats and spray and the hot sun but our photographer is just getting started. The end of the race, the closer they get to the shore is the most desperate time. Captains begin to take unreasonable chances in an effort to will the already straining boat forward. Volunteer sailors leap from their boat into the surging black water in an effort to unload some weight and gain speed. Others start looking for the shore and dry land and a cold beer would be nice too, this is hard work.
We have finally had enough too. Following the winner to the buoy, we listen to the cheers from all those unlucky folks that missed the real race and gratefully turn our boat towards home as the land lubbers begin the party on shore.

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